spring in san sebastian

This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission on anything purchased through those links at no extra cost to you. For more info, see my complete disclosure.

For a full list of what to eat, where to stay, and things to do in San Sebastian based on our experience, scroll to the bottom of this post.

When our friends from London, Jas and Jennie, asked us if we wanted to meet up one last time before we head back to the U.S., we were absolutely game. But where to go?! They'd already visited us here in Aachen last summer, and we stayed with them in London for a weekend not long after we moved to Germany. We threw out the idea of San Sebastian, and our friends were all in.

San Sebastian, or Donostia as the locals know it, is a place we've had on our bucket list for many years because of its amazing food (we love to eat - in case you hadn't gathered - and we've watched A LOT of Anthony Bourdain), but we honestly didn't think we'd make it there during our time living in Europe - both because of time constraints (we move back to the U.S. THIS MONTH!) and because we thought it wouldn't be great with a toddler.

Boy, were we wrong.

Though I think we could have enjoyed it in different ways adults-only, this was a shockingly kid-friendly place. The Spanish are a very family oriented culture - something I wasn't really paying much attention to when I spent a summer in Seville in college - and we never felt out of place with a 15 month old in tow. Between our travel stroller and the Ergo carrier, we had no problem navigating small restaurants and allowing Miles to nap on the go.

On a Thursday at the end of March, we flew into Bilbao airport via Eurowings. Super small, the airport was very easy to get out of, and we didn't have to wait long for our luggage. We rented a car, picked up Jas and Jennie who had arrived on an earlier flight, and set off on the hour long drive to San Sebastian.

Per our usual preference, we booked an airbnb in the city. Our host, Andrea, was absolutely lovely, greeting us with fresh fruit and baked bread, providing a well stocked kitchen, and even making sure we had a high chair and a travel crib. Not only was she amazingly accommodating, but the location and views from the apartment were absolutely stunning. It was definitely one of my best airbnb experiences to date, and I highly recommend her city center home!

View from Andrea's apartment in the center of San Sebastian

Food being priority number one, we sought out the best pintxos bars and aimed to fill our bellies with as many delightful small dishes as they could hold. In this particular region, pintxos are the name for small plates consisting of one or two bites of a food - what is more commonly known as tapas in other parts of Spain. One of our favorites was this Michelin star gem, A Fuego Negro. A little bit funky and super delicious, it was a win all around. I had the razor clams accompanied by a glass of the local Txakoli - a crisp, dry wine poured high above the glass to provide it almost a sparkling quality. It should be noted that I proceeded to enjoy at every restaurant thereafter, and you should, too.

We began Friday with pastries on-the-go, sightseeing, and, in true Glessner fashion, locally roasted coffee from Sakona.

Sakona Coffee Roasters, San Sebastian/Donostia

San Sebastian is seriously one of the most beautiful places I've had the pleasure of visiting. The mountains at the edge of the sea give it a feeling reminiscent of the California coastline, another of my favorite places on earth, so it's no surprise that I'd fall in love.

We were extremely grateful to one of Josh's co-workers, who hails from Spain, who advised us to visit a local sidreria for dinner and even made the reservation for us! It was a brief drive from the city center to the cider house, and this is a unique experience I am so glad we didn't miss. The local Basque cider is only made during a brief part of late winter to early spring season during which cider houses host these amazing multi-course meals complete with the free-flowing, straight from the barrel, minimally sweet beverage unique to the area.

At Sidreria Mina, our meal began with a great big baguette (which Miles ate the majority of... this kid and bread) and a cod omelette, followed by cod two ways - with peppers and in a cream sauce. We then indulged in the best beef I've ever had in all my days - a two-inch thick, bone-in steak seasoned only with coarse, delicious salt and cooked over charcoal to a perfect rare doneness. I'm pretty solidly a medium steak kinda gal (so as not to have my meal moo at me), but this - this was absolute culinary heaven.

We lucked out with sunshine and lovely weather our first full day, but the second day, the weather wasn't so much in our favor. Even in the pouring rain, this city is absolutely beautiful. San Sebastian, you can do no wrong!

Despite getting caught in an intense shower and almost turning back, we made our way to the Monte Igueldo Funicular, a historic incline, which took us to this incredible view of the city. At the top is an old amusement park and a cafe where we escaped the weather and enjoyed some warm drinks.

Feeling that our increasingly mobile boy was due for some time to run around, we parted ways with our friends for the afternoon to enjoy the aquarium. It was a great size for little ones, and Miles thoroughly enjoyed meeting his friends from Finding Nemo and The Pout Pout Fish in person. The biggest hits were the jellyfish and the tiny little shrimp which had this kid cracking up.

For our last dinner in Donostia, we knew we had to have more pintxos. One of Jennie's friends had recommended La Cuchara de San Telmo - a little hidden gem with standing room only and made-to-order small plates. I can honestly say that this was some of the best food to ever grace my tastebuds. We happened to get there early, right as they were opening, and asked the fella behind the counter to recommend a few of his favorite dishes. Soon after, this tiny place was packed with people while we enjoyed beef cheeks (my personal favorite), bacon wrapped cod, and the richest caramelized foie gras. Forget chicken and dumplings - this stuff is the epitome of comfort food. 

We ventured in the rain to one more pintxos bar on the other side of the river before making our way back to the apartment, but honestly, nothing could have topped this place. Next time we go back, you'll find me camped out here at San Telmo :)

If you're planning a visit to San Sebastian (and I truly hope you are), here are some tips:

the logistics for your san sebastian trip

The nearest airport to San Sebastian/Donostia is Bilbao. There are buses and a train line available, but we decided to take our carseat with us and just rent a car. The drive is a little over an hour, and with four adults, it was actually just as inexpensive to rent. Honestly, you don't need a vehicle at all in San Sebastian, as it's so very walkable, but it was nice for getting to the sidreria we visited on night two.

We always love airbnb for traveling as a family. There's usually more room for a travel crib, a kitchen to fix breakfast for tiny hungry people, and best of all, a living area for the adults to escape to for some wine and charcuterie after the little ones go to sleep. I highly recommend Andrea's place in San Sebastian - one of the best apartments we've every stayed in!

what to eat in san sebastian

There is great food on literally every corner. There are plenty of restaurants where you could sit down and have a meal, but why would you do that when you could just bar hop your way through so many delicious pintxos?! We dined at many places, but the ones I most highly recommend are...

La Cuchara de San Telmo, which has probably the best food I've ever eaten. It's definitely top three. My absolute must-get dish is the stewed beef cheeks. Get there early (as in, before they open) to grab a spot at the bar before the big rush.

A Fuego Negro has a completely different vibe than San Telmo, but the food is also incredible. My only regret is that I only had one dish here. 

Sidreria Mina, or any cider house, is something you absolutely must experience in Donostia. From what I understand, the menu is pretty standard across all of them, but we thoroughly enjoyed our meal at Mina. For those traveling with small children, a word of warning that there were no chairs here - standing tables only - which made things a little more difficult with a toddler. Other than that, I would consider it kid-friendly enough.

Sakona Coffee Roasters is, from what we found, the only local roastery in San Sebastian. The coffee was excellent, and though we didn't try them, their breakfast/pastry selection seemed tasty as well.

things to do in san sebastian

I honestly loved just wandering the streets, taking in the culture, and marveling at the architecture. If the weather's nice, the beaches here are beautiful. There's also some good hiking. Sit on a patio and enjoy a glass (or three) of the local txakoli. We (and Miles) enjoyed the aquarium - it's not too large or overwhelming for small children and a great place to stretch their legs after being strapped in a stroller all day. I highly recommend taking the Monte Igueldo Funicular up for the absolute best view of the city. The streets are lined with cute little boutiques and higher end department stores, if you find yourself needing a little retail therapy.

parting thoughts

Two years. Two incredible years of our lives we've spent living in an apartment in Aachen, Germany. When we first moved here, I cried. Alot. I sat in the bathroom floor and bawled my eyes out. I had left almost everything behind to come to a place where I knew no one, had no job, and didn't speak the language. I was five months pregnant, and I missed my dog. Writing it now makes me chuckle, but the struggle was very real at the time.

Here, I grew a child inside of me. Raised a tiny infant into a rambunctious toddler. Endured sweltering heat at 7 months pregnant with no air conditioner in a top floor flat. Where Miles learned to crawl. To walk. To run. Where he first said mama and dada. Where he had his first taste of solid food and learned to eat with utensils. 

Learned (a very little bit of) a new language. Stepped way (way, way) outside my comfort zone. Traveled to so many new places - by plane, by train, by automobile. Spent Christmas Eve looking at the Mona Lisa in Paris and cooked pasta in Florence for my 30th birthday and reenacted scenes from The Sound of Music in Salzburg with a lifelong friend. Cruised the canals of Amsterdam and ate pintxos in San Sebastian and took a selfie with Big Ben in London.

Daily walks in the park, stopping to watch the ducks and laying out a blanket in the grass listening to the monotonous sound of the fountain as the water rises and falls. Gelato on hot days and picking up flowers for our dining table at the weekly farmer's markets. Walking everywhere. The store. Dinner. I usually get in a car once a month. Late spring - when we open the windows and let the fresh air sweep over us as we listen to the chorus of birds. The month of December - when our little piece of Germany becomes a magical Christmas village filled with craft vendors and mulled wine.

There are many things I won't miss about Germany: the lack of Mexican food and air conditioning topping the list. But damn, if you haven't been good to us. It's not goodbye, but see you later. Until next time.

a weekend on the coast of holland: bloemendaal and haarlem

This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission on anything purchased through those links at no extra cost to you. For more info, see my complete disclosure.

For a full list of what to eat, where to stay, and things to do in Holland based on our experience, scroll to the bottom of this post.

This weekend was a long one here in Germany with today being Unity Day - a holiday recognizing the unification of East and West Germany - and we just returned from a little getaway to the Netherlands. It seems Holland is our go to place, but we just love it so darned much. The weather is typically nice (or at least nicer than here in Aachen), the people are kind (and almost all speak English!), and we've yet to be disappointed by any Dutch city we've visited.

This time, we ventured to the beach - a little town called Bloemendaal aan Zee - right on the North Sea. We had a great, modern condo with an ocean view, and although it was quite chilly and windy, we thoroughly enjoyed our time there.

Miles sees the beach for the first time. Taken with iPhone 6.

The wind was crazy, but we still had to get a family photo! Taken with iPhone 6.

The awesome thing about this area is that it's only about 10 minutes by car from the city of Haarlem. We've been to Amsterdam a couple of times now but had never ventured west to this area. After going there, I'm deeming it one of the Netherlands' (and possibly Europe's) best kept secrets.

One of the canals in Haarlem. Photo taken with Fuji X100S, edited with VSCO.

When I was prepping for our trip, I tried searching online for things to do and see, great places to eat, and where to find the best coffee in Haarlem, but my searches didn't turn up many results. I was ever so slightly concerned but figured we'd, at the very least, stumble upon some decent spots for a meal or a cup of joe. Well, let me tell you - DO NOT let the fact that Google isn't teeming with travel blogs about this North Holland city make you think for one second that it's not worth visiting.

Dutch architecture abounds in Haarlem's streets. Photo taken with Fuji X100S, edited with VSCO.

So many bikes in Haarlem. Photo taken with Fuji X100S, edited with VSCO.

It has all the beauty of Amsterdam's canals and Dutch architecture, but with a quaintness a large metropolitan city just doesn't offer. It's actually much like a version of Amsterdam's Jordaan neighborhood, which just happens to be our favorite part of the city. There are a few major landmarks - churches and museums and the like, and the city is filled with the most beautiful alleyways seemingly everywhere you turn.

St. Bavo Church, Haarlem. Photo taken with Fuji X100S, edited with VSCO.

Another gorgeous side street in Haarlem. Photo taken with iPhone 6.

Alley view of Haarlem's Nieuwe Kerk. Photo taken with Fuji X100S, edited with VSCO.

We started our Saturday with hot, fresh stroopwafel at the outdoor market in Haarlem's main square and spent the remainder of the weekend eating and drinking 'til our hearts (and bellies) content at some of the best establishments we've encountered in our time in Europe. Our first stop was MICA Coffee Bar, where we enjoyed a delicious pour over coffee and housemade chai latte and had a friendly chat with our barista.

MICA Coffee Bar, Haarlem. Photo taken with Fuji X100S, edited with VSCO.

The avocado waffle with pickled red onion and pesto was both healthy and flavorful. Not pictured, but equally scrumptious, was the goat cheese and prosciutto waffle. MICA Coffee Bar, Haarlem. Photo taken with iPhone 6.

After our lunch, we did a little shopping on Haarlem's main street - Grote Houtstraat - as well as the smaller Kleine Houtstraat, filled with the most adorable local boutiques and specialty stores. Once the shops closed at 5 o'clock, we still had some time to kill before the restaurant opened for dinner, so we headed over to the local Jopen brewery (housed in an old church!) for a quick libation.

Jopen Brewery, Haarlem. Photo taken with Fuji X100S, edited with VSCO.

Having a drink al fresco at Jopen Brewery, Haarlem. Photo taken with iPhone 6.

What happened next can only be described as a miracle. In North Holland, of all places, we found real, wonderful, glorious Mexican food. Those who know me know that Mexican food is my all time favorite and is IMPOSSIBLE to find here. I'm not exaggerating when I say I almost cried when the good folks at Cantina 023 delivered hot tortilla chips and the best spicy homemade salsa to the table. 

 Enchiladas at Cantina 023 in Haarlem.

Pork tacos at Cantina 023 in Haarlem.

On Sunday, after some early morning snuggles with Miles (the best!), we grabbed breakfast at the little cafe next to our condo and spent the rest of the morning and early afternoon relaxing on the couch as the rain fell outside. Once it cleared up a bit, we ventured back into Haarlem, where we had our caffeine fix and a yummy slice of carrot cake at NATIVE. 

NATIVE, Haarlem. Photo taken with iPhone 6.

We then headed to Roast Chicken Bar, where we indulged in yet another delicious dinner. Quite honestly, this place looked like it could have been straight out of Nashville, Tennessee. Their menu has one entree - chicken - roasted over charcoal on a open spit at the entrance of the restaurant. I can honestly say I've never had such a flavorful, melt-in-your-mouth bird in all my life. For our sides, we had fries with homemade mayo, grilled corn, and apple compote. The food here was so good, we went to their brunch restaurant, The Egg Store, on our way out of town for the most delicious smoked salmon benedict and pulled BBQ chicken with waffles. I could make the trip all the way back to only eat here.

Roast Chicken Bar and The Egg Store, Haarlem. Photo taken with iPhone 6.

Roast Chicken Bar and The Egg Store, Haarlem. Photo taken with iPhone 6.

If you're heading to Amsterdam or are anywhere near enough to make a day trip, I highly recommend Haarlem! I've fallen in love with it, and I'm sure that you will, too. 

If you'd like to check out some of the places we enjoyed in Haarlem and the North Sea coast, here's a complete list with a few additional details included:

where to stay in bloemendaal and haarlem

We wanted to stay at the beach where we new it would be quiet and relaxing (even though it was cold and windy as all get out), and this apartment was perfect. The rental staff was so super nice, and the view was amazing. There were a couple of restaurants within walking distance, and the nearest grocery store is just a short drive away in the next town over, Zandvoort. I would definitely recommend it if you're craving the salty air. 

However, if you'd rather have the conveniences of Haarlem, there are a ton of really great apartments on airbnb.

where to eat and drink in haarlem

Coffee: We're kind of coffee snobs, me and the mister, so wherever we go, we make it our mission to find the best cup of joe around. MICA Coffee Bar and NATIVE were both absolutely excellent. We had both drip coffee and chai lattes at each that were heavenly. The food was also excellent - I highly recommend the avocado waffle at MICA served with perfectly crisp pickled red onions and pesto.

The Egg Store and Roast Chicken Bar: This place was so good for dinner, we went back the very next morning for breakfast. Their dinner menu consists of one entree - their perfectly roasted chickens. Not only are the bird and all the sides scrumptious, but it's super kid-friendly food, too.

Cantina 023: While I realize that everyone may not be jonesing for Mexican food like me, this place really was legit. By far the most authentic we've had in Europe. And the salsa is SPICY.

Jopen Brewery: Not only is this a cool place to see... I mean, it's a brewery in a church. Come on, now. But they've also got a great beer selection.

what to do in bloemendaal and haarlem

Feel the ocean breeze: Visit the beaches at Bloemendaal aan Zee (quieter and calmer) or Zandvoort (more to do, but also busier). The beaches here are absolutely beautiful, and even in the cold weather, there were plenty of surfers and kite fliers to watch.

Shop: Haarlem has some great shopping... it's actually considered one of the best places to shop in the Netherlands. Visit the many local and designer boutiques for anything from antiques to the most stylish clothing.

Sightsee: Step in the beautiful St. Bavo's Church, where Handel and Mozart have played the organ. Wander the streets and alleyways and stop to take in the beautiful doors and front step gardens. Read The Hiding Place, and then visit the Corrie Ten Boom house to learn about how this brave family helped to save many Jews in Haarlem during WWII.